The Driftwood Shore Lace Edging: A Free Knitting Pattern for a Textured, Ocean-Inspired Trim
The Driftwood Shore Lace Edging: A Modern, Textured Knitting Pattern
This isn't your grandmother's doily lace; it's a modern, sculptural edging that mimics the rhythmic ebb and flow of waves on a pebbled shore. Knit in a soft, heathered yarn, this pattern creates a beautifully textured trim perfect for adding a touch of coastal elegance to blankets, towels, or garments. The undulating scallops and small eyelets evoke the organic feel of driftwood and sea foam, making it an inspiring project for both beginners and experienced knitters looking for a unique, textured lace.
Materials Needed
- Yarn: Worsted weight (#4) yarn in a heathered grey-blue (approx. 50g/100m per repeat). Sample uses Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash in 'Blue Velvet'.
- Needles: US 7 (4.5mm) knitting needles
- Gauge: Not critical for this pattern, but a consistent tension is important. Gauge in pattern: 20 sts x 28 rows = 4 inches in Stockinette stitch.
- Other: Tapestry needle for weaving in ends (if sewing on later).
Step-by-Step Instructions
Note: This edging is worked sideways (from the long edge) and can be attached to your project as you knit or sewn on later. The pattern repeat is 28 rows, with a 2-stitch border on each side. The pattern decreases stitches gradually to create the scalloped shape, then increases back up. Follow the stitch counts carefully.
Abbreviations
- k = knit
- p = purl
- yo = yarn over
- k2tog = knit two together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (slip two stitches knitwise, one at a time, then knit them together through the back loops)
- sl1 wyif = slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in front
- sl1 wyib = slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in back
Pattern
Cast on 14 stitches.
Row 1 (Right Side): sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). You will have 14 stitches.
Row 2 (Wrong Side): sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (13 stitches)
Row 3: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (13 stitches)
Row 4: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (12 stitches)
Row 5: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (12 stitches)
Row 6: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (11 stitches)
Row 7: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (11 stitches)
Row 8: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (10 stitches)
Row 9: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (10 stitches)
Row 10: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (9 stitches)
Row 11: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (9 stitches)
Row 12: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (8 stitches)
Row 13 (Increase Row): sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (8 stitches)
Row 14: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (7 stitches)
Row 15: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (7 stitches)
Row 16: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (6 stitches)
Row 17: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (6 stitches)
Row 18: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (5 stitches)
Row 19: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (5 stitches)
Row 20: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (4 stitches)
Row 21: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (4 stitches)
Row 22: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (3 stitches)
Row 23: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (3 stitches)
Row 24: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (2 stitches)
Row 25: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (2 stitches)
Row 26: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (1 stitch)
Row 27: sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1* (repeat from * to * across the row). (1 stitch)
Row 28: sl1 wyib, p to last 2 stitches, p2tog. (0 stitches)
Repeat: Repeat Rows 1-28 for desired length. Bind off loosely.
Attaching the Edging
To attach to your project, you can either knit the edging directly onto the edge of your project by picking up stitches, or sew it on with a mattress stitch. For a seamless look, knit the edging as you go by working the last stitch of each row together with a stitch from your project edge.
