Retro Kitchen Mixer Tissue Box Cozy Free Pattern: A 1970s Crochet Cover
Retro Kitchen Mixer Tissue Box Cozy: A 1970s Crochet Cover
Introduction
If you have never held a crochet hook before, this is the perfect first project to fall in love with. This retro kitchen mixer tissue box cozy turns an ordinary box of tissues into a nostalgic 1970s kitchen icon, complete with burnt-orange and harvest-gold stripes and a cream mixing bowl perched on top. It is worked almost entirely in single crochet, the simplest stitch there is, so you only need to learn one stitch to make the whole thing. The finished cover looks like a little vintage stand mixer sitting on your counter: a striped rectangular body, two tiny side handles, and a rounded bowl rising about 3 inches above the top. It feels sturdy and textured in worsted-weight acrylic, and it makes a charming, useful gift for anyone who loves retro kitchens.
Materials Needed
- Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4) acrylic yarn:
- Burnt orange (Color A): approximately 180 yards
- Harvest gold (Color B): approximately 90 yards
- Cream (Color C): approximately 60 yards
- Hook: US G/6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook
- Stitch markers (at least 4)
- Tapestry needle (a large, blunt-tipped needle with an eye big enough for yarn, used for sewing seams and weaving in ends)
- Scissors
- Optional: a small amount of polyester fiberfill (stuffing) to shape the bowl
- Finished size: Fits a standard rectangular tissue box approximately 9.5" long x 4.75" wide x 3.5" tall. The finished cover measures about 10" long x 5.25" wide x 4" tall at the base, with the bowl rising about 3" above the top.
Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary
- ch – chain. Make a loop of yarn on your hook, wrap yarn over the hook, and pull it through the loop. Each one you make looks like a little sideways "V."
- sc – single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over the hook, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), wrap yarn over again, and pull through both loops. One loop remains. This is the only main stitch in this pattern.
- sl st – slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over, and pull it through both the stitch and the loop on your hook at the same time. It makes a nearly invisible join.
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (a decrease). Insert hook into the first stitch, pull up a loop; insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook); wrap yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This turns two stitches into one and makes the piece narrower.
- st(s) – stitch(es).
- BLO – back loop only. Every single crochet stitch has two top loops (a front loop and a back loop). Working "in the back loop only" means you insert your hook under just the loop farthest from you. (This pattern does not use BLO, but it is listed here so you recognize it if you see it elsewhere.)
- magic ring – an adjustable loop of yarn you crochet into, then pull tight to close the center hole. If it feels tricky, you can instead chain 2 and work your first round into the first chain.
- join – after working a round, slip stitch into the first stitch of that round to close the circle.
- turn – flip your work over so you can work back across the row you just made.
- fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.
- whipstitch – a simple sewing stitch: bring the needle up through both pieces, over the edge, and back down, repeating along the seam.
Gauge
17 single crochet stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).
Gauge simply means how big your stitches turn out. If your stitches are bigger than this, your cover will be baggy; if smaller, it won't fit over the box. To check, crochet a small square about 5 inches wide in single crochet, lay a ruler across the middle, and count how many stitches fit in 4 inches. If you get more than 17, switch to a larger hook; if fewer, switch to a smaller hook. It is worth the ten minutes, because a cozy that fits snugly looks far more polished.
Beginner Tips Before You Start
- Count every row. Single crochet rows are easy to lose track of. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each row as you begin it, and move it up as you go.
- Don't pull the yarn tight. Tension is the number one beginner struggle. Let the yarn flow smoothly; your stitches should be relaxed enough that the hook slides in easily.
- Change colors on the last stitch of the row. When you finish the final single crochet of a stripe, pull the new color through the last two loops. This hides the change neatly.
- Keep your turning chain tiny. This pattern uses a chain 1 at the start of each row. It does not count as a stitch, so your first single crochet goes into the very first stitch.
- Try the cover on the box as you go. Once the base is seamed, slip it over the tissue box to check the fit before you sew on the bowl.
- Work the bowl loosely. Joined rounds can pucker if you crochet tightly; a relaxed hand keeps the bowl round and smooth.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Base (worked flat in stripes)
With Color A (burnt orange), ch 44.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (43 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (43 sc)
Rows 3–4: Repeat Row 2 in Color A. (43 sc)
Rows 5–8: Change to Color B (harvest gold). Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (43 sc)
Rows 9–12: Change to Color A. Repeat Row 2. (43 sc)
Rows 13–16: Change to Color B. Repeat Row 2. (43 sc)
Rows 17–20: Change to Color A. Repeat Row 2. (43 sc)
Rows 21–24: Change to Color B. Repeat Row 2. (43 sc)
Rows 25–28: Change to Color A. Repeat Row 2. (43 sc)
Rows 29–32: Change to Color B. Repeat Row 2. (43 sc)
Rows 33–36: Change to Color A. Repeat Row 2. (43 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. The piece measures approximately 10" long x 8.5" tall. At 18 rows per 4 inches, 36 rows gives you about 8 inches of height, which folds into the box shape.
Seaming the Box
Fold the rectangle so the two short ends meet, forming a tube with the right side (the smoother, striped side) facing out. Using your tapestry needle and the long tail, whipstitch the short ends together to close the side seam. Slip the tube over the tissue box so the top edge sits about 1" below the box top. Fold the bottom 1.5" of the tube inward to create a hem, and whipstitch it in place around the lower edge. The top opening will be covered by the bowl.
Bowl (worked in joined rounds, cream)
With Color C (cream), make a magic ring.
Round 1: 6 sc into the ring. Join with sl st to the first sc. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join. (12 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] around. Join. (18 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] around. Join. (24 sc)
Round 5: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts] around. Join. (30 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts] around. Join. (36 sc)
Round 7: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts] around. Join. (42 sc)
Round 8: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts] around. Join. (48 sc)
Round 9: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts] around. Join. (54 sc)
Round 10: Ch 1, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts] around. Join. (60 sc)
Rounds 11–14: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (60 sc)
Round 15: Ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts] around. Join. (54 sc)
Round 16: Ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts] around. Join. (48 sc)
Round 17: Ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts] around. Join. (42 sc)
Round 18: Ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts] around. Join. (36 sc)
Round 19: Ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts] around. Join. (30 sc)
Round 20: Ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts] around. Join. (24 sc)
Round 21: Ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts] around. Join. (18 sc)
Round 22: Ch 1, [sc2tog, sc in next st] around. Join. (12 sc)
Round 23: Ch 1, [sc2tog] around. Join. (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Weave the tail through the remaining 6 sts and pull tight to close the top of the bowl. The bowl should measure about 5" across the widest point and about 3" tall. Lightly stuff with a small amount of fiberfill if desired for shape, then sew the bowl to the top opening of the base with Color C, positioning it slightly off-center toward one end to mimic a mixer's bowl.
Handles (make 2, harvest gold)
With Color B, ch 8.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (7 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (7 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (7 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Fold each handle in half lengthwise to form a small loop and whipstitch the ends together. Sew one handle to each short side of the base, about 1.5" below the top edge, using Color B.
Assembly and Finishing
Begin by seaming the base as described in the Seaming the Box section, then sew the bowl to the top opening, centering it slightly toward one end. Attach both handles to the short sides. Next, weave in every loose end: thread each tail onto your tapestry needle and run it back and forth through the back of several stitches (about 1 inch), then trim close to the work. Never knot your ends; weaving them in keeps the surface smooth. Finally, steam block the cover: hold a steam iron a few inches above the fabric (never press it down onto acrylic, which can melt) and let the steam relax the stitches, then pat the box into shape and let it dry completely. Insert the tissue box through the bottom opening, pulling a tissue up through the top of the bowl if desired, or leave the bowl as a decorative cover.
Pro Tips and Variations
- Change the palette: Swap burnt orange and harvest gold for avocado green and mustard, or try a modern palette of dusty pink and cream, for a completely different look with the same pattern.
- Adjust the size: For a larger tissue box, add stitches in multiples of 2 to the starting chain and add rows in 4-row stripe blocks until the rectangle wraps your box with a 1" overlap.
- Substitute yarn: Any worsted weight (category 4) yarn works; cotton gives a crisper, more washable finish, while acrylic is softer and more economical.
- Add texture: Work the bowl in half double crochet (hdc) instead of single crochet for a slightly taller, softer bowl, or add a contrasting cream stripe near the top of the base for extra retro flair.