Ice Crystal Witch Broom Lovey Free Crochet Pattern

Ice Crystal Witch Broom Lovey: A Beginner-Friendly Crochet Pattern

If you have never held a crochet hook before, this is the perfect first project to fall in love with. The Ice Crystal Witch Broom Lovey is a soft, fairycore snuggle toy that pairs a striped silver-and-ice-blue triangular shawl with a tiny amigurumi witch head and a straight broom handle. It looks magical and intricate, but it is built from just three simple shapes: a flat triangle, a small stuffed ball, and a little stuffed tube. The finished lovey is about 14 inches wide and 12 inches tall, with a 5-inch broom handle, and it feels plush, cuddly, and just right for small hands. Every stitch is explained below, so even a complete beginner can make something beautiful.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (CYC 4) acrylic yarn. 1 skein each in Ice Blue and Silver; a small amount of Pale Peach for the witch head; a small amount of Charcoal for the hair; a small amount of Dark Brown for the broom handle. (One standard skein is about 170–200 yards; you will use only a portion of each.)
• Crochet hook: Size G/6 (4.0 mm).
• Stitch marker (one, or a scrap of contrasting yarn).
• Tapestry needle (a large blunt needle with an eye big enough for yarn).
• Polyester fiberfill (toy stuffing) for the head and handle.
• Scissors.
• Finished size: Approximately 14 inches (35.5 cm) wide across the top edge and 12 inches (30.5 cm) tall from top edge to bottom point, plus a 5-inch (12.7 cm) broom handle. The witch head is about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) in diameter.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch – chain. Make a loop, wrap yarn over the hook, and pull it through the loop on your hook. This creates one chain stitch.
• sc – single crochet. Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. One loop remains.
• dc – double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops.
• dc2tog – double crochet 2 together (a decrease). Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops left), yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (4 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through all remaining loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (a decrease). Insert hook into first stitch, pull up a loop (2 loops), insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. This turns 2 stitches into 1.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook at once. Used to join rounds or move without adding height.
• st(s) – stitch(es).
• MR – magic ring (also called magic circle). A loop of yarn you crochet into, then pull closed so there is no hole in the center.
• FO – fasten off. Cut the yarn, pull the tail through the last loop, and tighten.
• RS – right side. The side of the work that faces outward on the finished piece.
• Rnd – round. One complete circle of stitches worked in the round.
• Turn – flip your work over so you can crochet back the other way.
• 2 sc in next st – work two single crochets into the same stitch (an increase).
• [ ] – brackets. Repeat everything inside the brackets the number of times stated after them.

Gauge

Body (single crochet): 16 sc x 18 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).
Shawl (double crochet): 14 dc x 8 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).

Gauge means how many stitches and rows fit into a 4-inch square. It matters because if your stitches are looser or tighter than the pattern expects, your lovey will come out bigger or smaller than planned. To check it, crochet a small square (about 20 stitches wide and 20 rows tall) in single crochet, lay it flat, and measure 4 inches across the middle. Count the stitches inside that 4 inches. If you have more than 16, your stitches are tight — try a larger hook. If you have fewer, your stitches are loose — try a smaller hook. Do the same for the shawl in double crochet. A quick swatch saves hours of rework.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use a stitch marker. When you work in continuous rounds (the head, hair, and handle), you never join at the end of a round, so it is easy to lose your place. Place the marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Beginners often tug hard, which makes stiff, holey fabric that is hard to stuff. Keep an even, relaxed tension.
• Count your stitches at the end of every row and round. The numbers in parentheses tell you exactly how many you should have. If you are off, fix it before moving on.
• Stuff firmly but in small pieces. Add fiberfill a little at a time so the head and handle stay smooth and round, not lumpy.
• Keep your color changes tidy. When you switch from Silver to Ice Blue, finish the last stitch with the new color so the stripe edge stays clean.
• Read the whole pattern once first. Knowing where you are going makes every step easier.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: The Shawl (worked flat in turned rows, striped)

The shawl is a right triangle worked from the wide top edge down to the point. You decrease 2 stitches on every row, which makes the triangle taper neatly.

With Silver, ch 50.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (48 dc) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in each st to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st. (46 dc) Turn. Change to Ice Blue.

Row 3: Ch 2, dc in next st, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st. (44 dc) Turn.

Row 4: Repeat Row 3. (42 dc) Turn. Change to Silver.

Rows 5–24: Repeat Row 3, alternating colors every 2 rows (Silver, Ice Blue, Silver, Ice Blue…) and decreasing 2 sts per row. Stitch counts: Row 5 (40), Row 6 (38), Row 7 (36), Row 8 (34), Row 9 (32), Row 10 (30), Row 11 (28), Row 12 (26), Row 13 (24), Row 14 (22), Row 15 (20), Row 16 (18), Row 17 (16), Row 18 (14), Row 19 (12), Row 20 (10), Row 21 (8), Row 22 (6), Row 23 (4), Row 24 (2).

Final row (Row 25): Ch 2, dc2tog. (1 st) FO.

Weave in ends. The shawl should form a neat triangle with a straight top edge and a pointed bottom.

Optional edging: With Silver, work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire outer edge of the triangle, working 3 sc in the bottom point. Sl st to first sc. FO and weave in.

Part 2: The Witch Head (amigurumi, continuous single crochet rounds)

Work in a spiral. Do not join at the end of each round. Use your stitch marker.

With Pale Peach, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around. (18)

Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (24)

Rnds 5–9: Sc in each st around. (24)

Rnd 10: [Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog] around. (18)

Stuff the head firmly with polyester fiberfill.

Rnd 11: [Sc in next st, sc2tog] around. (12)

Rnd 12: Sc2tog around. (6)

FO leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the remaining 6 sts and pull closed.

Part 3: The Hair (continuous single crochet rounds)

With Charcoal, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around. (18)

Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (24)

Rnds 5–7: Sc in each st around. (24)

FO leaving a long tail. Slip the hair cap over the top of the head and sew it in place around the face opening, leaving the lower front of the face exposed. Use the tapestry needle to tack a few strands of Charcoal yarn around the face for wispy hair.

Part 4: The Broom Handle (continuous single crochet rounds)

With Dark Brown, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (12)

Rnds 4–24: Sc in each st around. (12)

Stuff the handle lightly with fiberfill.

Rnd 25: Sc2tog around. (6)

FO leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the remaining 6 sts and pull closed.

Assembly and Finishing

1. Attach the head to the shawl. Thread the long tail from the witch head onto your tapestry needle. Position the head just above the bottom point of the shawl, on the right side. Sew through the head and the shawl several times in a small circle to secure it firmly, then weave the tail into the shawl and trim.

2. Attach the broom handle. Thread the long tail from the broom handle onto your needle. Hold the handle so it points straight down from the bottom of the head. Sew through the top of the handle and the bottom of the head several times, going all the way around, until it is secure. Weave in the tail.

3. Weave in all ends. Use the tapestry needle to run each loose tail back and forth through the inside of the work for about an inch, then trim close to the fabric. Never knot your ends — weaving hides them neatly.

4. Block the shawl. Lightly steam the shawl to settle the stitches and help the triangle lie flat. Hold the iron an inch or two above the fabric (never press it down) and let the steam do the work. Do not over-steam the amigurumi parts, as heat can distort the stuffing. Let everything dry completely, then trim any remaining loose yarn tails.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors. Swap Ice Blue and Silver for any two colors you love — lavender and white, deep purple and gold, or pink and cream — to make the lovey your own. Just keep alternating every 2 rows so the stripes stay even.
• Make it bigger or smaller. To enlarge the shawl, start with a longer chain (add 10 chains for roughly 2 extra inches of width) and keep decreasing 2 stitches per row until 2 remain. To make it smaller, start with a shorter chain. The head and handle sizes stay the same.
• Substitute yarn. Any worsted weight (CYC 4) yarn works. If you use a different weight, check your gauge first and adjust your hook size so the finished measurements stay close to the pattern.
• Add a charm. Sew a small autumn-leaf charm or a tiny felt leaf near the bottom point of the shawl for a fairycore touch. Skip it if the lovey is for a baby, since small parts can be a choking hazard.