Pom Pop Two-Tone Slouchy Toque Free Pattern

Pom Pop Two-Tone Slouchy Toque: A Beginner's First Hat

If you have ever wanted to make a hat but felt nervous about shaping, this is the project for you. The Pom Pop Two-Tone Slouchy Toque is worked as one simple tube of single crochet, so there is almost no shaping to worry about — just a flat little circle for the crown and then straight, soothing rounds until you reach the bottom. It is perfect for total beginners, for anyone who wants a relaxing "no-brainer" project, and for anyone who loves that retro 1970s two-tone look. The finished hat is soft, squishy, and gently slouchy, with a wide folded cotton candy pink cuff and an oversized fluffy pink pom-pom perched on top. In baby blue and pink bulky yarn, it looks like a scoop of your favorite ice cream and feels like a warm hug for your head.

Materials Needed

• Yarn (main color): Bulky (weight 5) acrylic or wool-blend yarn in baby blue — approx. 150 yd (137 m).
• Yarn (contrast color): Bulky (weight 5) acrylic or wool-blend yarn in cotton candy pink — approx. 90 yd (82 m) (used for the cuff and the pom-pom).
• Crochet hook: Size J/10 (6.0 mm).
• Stitch marker (or a safety pin, or a short scrap of contrasting yarn) to mark the first stitch of each round.
• Yarn needle (also called a tapestry needle — a big blunt needle with an eye large enough for bulky yarn) for weaving in ends and attaching the pom-pom.
• Scissors for cutting yarn.
• Pom-pom maker (approx. 4 in / 10 cm) or a 4 in (10 cm) piece of cardboard and a ruler.
• Measuring tape for checking gauge and size.
• Finished size: One size fits most teens/adults — approx. 20 in (51 cm) circumference unstretched (fits 21–23 in / 53–58 cm head) and approx. 11 in (28 cm) tall before folding the cuff, about 9 in (23 cm) tall with the cuff folded up. Pom-pom approx. 3.5–4 in (9–10 cm) across.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every abbreviation used in this pattern is listed here in plain English. If you have never crocheted before, read this list twice before you begin — it is your dictionary.

• ch – chain. Make a loop of yarn on your hook, then pull the yarn through that loop. Each one you make is a "chain." (This pattern uses a magic ring instead of a starting chain, but you may see "ch" in other patterns.)
• sc – single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook, pull up a loop (you now have 2 loops on the hook), wrap the yarn over again, and pull it through both loops. That is one single crochet.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap the yarn over, and pull it through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. It makes a tight, flat join.
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together. This is a decrease: it turns two stitches into one. Insert your hook into the first stitch, pull up a loop, insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. (Listed here so you recognize it; this pattern does not actually use it.)
• st(s) – stitch(es). One completed loop/unit of crochet.
• 2 sc in next st – work two single crochets into the same stitch. This is an increase: it turns one stitch into two and makes the circle grow.
• Magic ring – an adjustable loop of yarn that you crochet into, then pull closed so there is no hole in the middle. It is how you start a circle.
• Continuous spiral rounds – working round and round without joining at the end of each round, so the fabric spirals upward like a snail shell. No seam!
• Fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.
• Weave in ends – thread a yarn tail onto a yarn needle and sew it back and forth through the inside of the fabric so it disappears.

Gauge

Gauge: 12 sc x 14 rounds = 4 in (10 cm) in single crochet worked in continuous spiral rounds with the J/10 (6.0 mm) hook.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how big your stitches come out. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern's, your hat will be too big; if they are smaller, the hat will be too tight. Gauge is the difference between a hat that fits and one that does not.

How to make a gauge swatch: With baby blue yarn, make a magic ring and work 8 sc into it. Work Round 2 as [2 sc in each st] around (16 sc). Then work plain sc rounds (one sc in each st) until your swatch is at least 4 in (10 cm) tall. Lay it flat, place a ruler across the middle, and count how many stitches fit in 4 in (10 cm) — you want about 12. Count how many rounds fit in 4 in (10 cm) — you want about 14. If you have more stitches than 12, your stitches are too small: try a larger hook. If you have fewer, your stitches are too big: try a smaller hook. Your swatch is also a free mini practice piece!

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use a stitch marker every single round. Place it in the very first stitch of each round. In a spiral there is no seam to tell you where a round begins, and the marker is the only way to keep count.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Beginners often tug each stitch snug, which makes a stiff, tiny hat. Let the yarn relax and keep your stitches even and slightly loose.
• Count your stitches at the end of every increase round. The numbers in parentheses tell you exactly how many stitches you should have. If you are off, fix it now rather than later.
• Work the first round loosely. The magic ring is the hardest part. If your first 8 stitches are loose, the ring will close easily and the crown will lie flat.
• Keep the right side out. In a spiral, the fabric naturally curls. As you work, push the tube so the smooth, ridged "right side" faces outward and the little bumps face inward.
• Try the hat on as you go. Once the crown is done, slip the tube over your head to check the fit — it should feel snug but not tight.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: The Crown (Baby Blue)

With baby blue yarn, make a magic ring. Work in continuous spiral rounds — do not join rounds and do not turn your work. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.

• Round 1: Work 8 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. (8 sc)
• Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16 sc)
• Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] around. (24 sc)
• Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts] around. (32 sc)
• Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts] around. (40 sc)
• Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts] around. (48 sc)
• Round 7: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts] around. (56 sc)
• Round 8: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts] around. (64 sc)
• Round 9: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts] around. (72 sc)

The crown now measures approx. 6 in (15 cm) across. (72 sts ÷ 12 sts per 4 in = 24 in / 61 cm flat circumference, which relaxes to about 20 in / 51 cm when worn.)

Part 2: The Body (Baby Blue)

• Rounds 10–30: Sc in each st around, working in a continuous spiral. (72 sc per round)

That is 21 plain rounds. After Round 30 the tube measures approx. 11 in (28 cm) from the crown. Do not fasten off yet.

Part 3: The Cuff (Cotton Candy Pink)

Change to cotton candy pink by pulling the new color through on the last stitch of Round 30. Cut the blue yarn, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail to weave in later.

• Rounds 31–40: With pink, sc in each st around. (72 sc per round)

That is 10 pink rounds, making the cuff approx. 3 in (7.5 cm) deep. Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25 cm) tail. Thread the tail on the yarn needle and weave it through the last round of stitches, then draw it up gently so the edge matches the tension of the rest of the tube. Weave in the end.

Part 4: The Pom-Pom (Cotton Candy Pink)

Using pink yarn and a pom-pom maker or a 4 in (10 cm) cardboard template, wrap yarn approx. 80–100 times to make a full, fluffy pom-pom. Tie off tightly at the center, then trim to a round shape approx. 3.5–4 in (9–10 cm) across.

Assembly and Finishing

Fold the cuff: Fold the pink section up over the outside of the blue tube so the pink band sits against the blue. The fold line is at the color change (between Rounds 30 and 31). Lightly steam-block the fold so it lies flat — hold a steam iron an inch or two above the fabric (never press it down) and let the steam relax the fibers, then pat the fold into place.

Attach the pom-pom: Thread a 12 in (30 cm) length of pink yarn on the yarn needle. Pass it through the center of the pom-pom, then through the top center of the hat crown (through the magic ring opening), and back through the pom-pom center. Tie securely on the inside of the crown with a double knot. Trim the pom-pom once more if needed.

Weave in all ends: Thread each remaining tail on the yarn needle and sew it back and forth through the inside of the fabric for about 2 in (5 cm), changing direction once or twice so it cannot work loose. Trim the excess close to the fabric.

Blocking: Gently hand wash the hat in cold water with a little wool wash or mild soap, squeeze (never wring) out the water in a towel, and lay it flat to dry, shaping the crown into a nice round dome and smoothing the folded cuff. Do not hang it up wet, or it will stretch. Lay flat to dry to keep the pom-pom fluffy.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: This two-tone design works in any pair. Try cream and rust for a true 1970s feel, or charcoal and mustard for something modern. You can also work the pom-pom in the main color for a subtler look.
• Adjust the size: To make the hat bigger, add one more increase round (Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts] around = 80 sc) and work the body and cuff to the same stitch count. To make it smaller, stop increasing one round earlier (64 sc at Round 8) and work the body and cuff on 64 sts. Each 8 stitches adds or removes roughly 2.5 in (6 cm) of circumference.
• Substitute yarn: Any bulky (weight 5) yarn will work — just check your gauge first. A wool blend blocks beautifully and holds the slouch; a 100% acrylic is machine-friendly and easy to care for.
• Make the cuff deeper or shallower: Add or remove pink rounds in pairs. Each pair of rounds adds about 0.6 in (1.5 cm) to the cuff depth — just remember to adjust your pink yardage.