Fleur de Lis Point Belt Free Crochet Pattern: Parisian Chic Navy & White Obi

Fleur de Lis Point Belt: Parisian Chic in Navy & White

If you have ever wanted to make something that looks expensive but is secretly just single crochet, this is your project. This navy obi belt is worked sideways in one long, satisfying strip, then finished with a deep pointed front, two crisp white stripes, and a single white fleur-de-lis appliqué. It is perfect for a first real project because it uses only the most basic stitches, yet the finished belt looks tailored and polished, like something you would find in a little boutique in Paris. The dense DK cotton gives it a firm, matte, structured feel that holds its shape around a dress or high-waisted trousers instead of sagging. Wear it over a plain dress, a tunic, or a long cardigan, and suddenly your outfit looks intentional.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: DK / light worsted weight (Category 3) cotton yarn, about 21–24 single crochet stitches to 4 in (10 cm). Navy: approx. 150 yd (137 m). White: approx. 40 yd (37 m).
• Hook: D/3 (3.25 mm) crochet hook, or whatever size gives you the gauge below.
• Stitch markers: at least 4 (or use small safety pins or scrap yarn loops).
• Tapestry needle: a blunt-tipped needle with a large eye, for sewing the appliqué and weaving in ends.
• Scissors for cutting yarn.
• Pins for blocking and for holding the appliqué in place while you sew.
• Finished size: Length 60 cm (23.6 in) across the straight back band. Width 8.5 cm (3.35 in) at the sides, deepening to 16 cm (6.3 in) at the center front point. Ties: two 40 cm (15.75 in) cords.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch – chain: wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it through the loop on your hook. This makes the starting "foundation."
• sl st – slip stitch: insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull the loop straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook. The flattest, tightest stitch.
• sc – single crochet: insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. One loop remains.
• hdc – half double crochet (listed for reference; not used in this pattern): yarn over first, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
• dc – double crochet (listed for reference; not used here): yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through last 2 loops.
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (a decrease): insert hook into the first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. Two stitches become one.
• 2 sc in next st – work two single crochet stitches into the same stitch. This is an increase and adds one stitch.
• st(s) – stitch(es).
• RS / WS – right side (the pretty, outward-facing side) / wrong side (the back side that faces your body).
• magic ring – an adjustable loop of yarn you crochet into, then pull tight so there is no hole in the center.
• surface slip stitch – working slip stitches on top of finished fabric by inserting the hook under the horizontal bars of the stitches, so the new line sits on the surface.
• whipstitch – a simple sewing stitch: bring the needle up through both layers, over the edge, and down again, repeating in small even stitches.

Gauge

20 sc x 24 rows = 4 x 4 in (10 x 10 cm) in single crochet, unblocked.

Gauge is simply how big your stitches come out. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern's, the belt will be too long and wide; if smaller, it will be too short and stiff. To check, crochet a small square about 5 in (13 cm) wide in single crochet, lay a ruler across the middle, and count how many stitches fit in 4 in (10 cm) and how many rows fit in 4 in (10 cm). If you have more stitches than 20, switch to a larger hook; if fewer, switch to a smaller hook. Always make the swatch before starting, because this belt is worked in one piece and the length depends entirely on your row gauge.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Count your rows as you go. The straight band is 118 identical rows, so place a stitch marker every 10 rows to keep track. Losing count is the number one beginner mistake here.
• Keep your tension relaxed. Do not pull the yarn tight after each stitch. The belt should feel firm but not stiff like cardboard.
• Always work the turning chain. Every row begins with "ch 1, turn." That chain does not count as a stitch, so your first sc goes into the very first stitch.
• Use stitch markers for the center point. Mark the center stitch of the lower edge before you begin Part 2 so the point stays perfectly centered.
• Try the belt on as you go. Hold the band around your waist before adding the point to check the length suits you.
• Keep white yarn separate. Do not carry white through the navy rows; the stripes are added afterward, which keeps the band neat.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Note: The belt is worked sideways in one piece, starting at one pointed end, working the straight band, then the second pointed end. The center front point is added afterward along the lower long edge. White stripes are worked as surface slip-stitch lines after the navy band is complete.

Part 1: Navy Band

With navy, ch 18.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across — (17 sc).

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (17 sc).

Rows 3–118: Repeat Row 2 — (17 sc). The band measures approx. 50 cm (19.7 in) long and 8.5 cm (3.35 in) wide. Do not fasten off.

Left Pointed End (rows 1–10)

With RS facing and working along the short starting edge, join navy with sl st in the first st of Row 1.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each of next 16 sts along the edge — (17 sc).

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog — (15 sc).

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (15 sc).

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog — (13 sc).

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (13 sc).

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog — (11 sc).

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (11 sc).

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog — (9 sc).

Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (9 sc).

Row 10: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog — (7 sc). Fasten off.

Right Pointed End (rows 119–128)

With RS facing and working along the short finishing edge, join navy with sl st in the first st of Row 118.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each of next 16 sts along the edge — (17 sc).

Rows 2–10: Work exactly as Left Pointed End Rows 2–10 — (7 sc). Fasten off.

Part 2: Center Front Point (navy)

The point is centered on the lower long edge of the band. Mark the center stitch of the band's lower edge (the 9th stitch of the 17-stitch width).

Row 1 (RS): Join navy with sl st in the 5th st before the center marker (5 sts to the left of center). Ch 1, sc in same st and in each of next 8 sts, ending 4 sts past center — (9 sc).

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog — (7 sc).

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (7 sc).

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog — (5 sc).

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (5 sc).

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog — (3 sc).

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (3 sc).

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog — (1 sc). Fasten off. The point should measure approx. 16 cm (6.3 in) from the band's lower edge to the tip after blocking.

Part 3: White Border Stripes

Using white and holding the belt with RS facing, work two narrow surface slip-stitch stripes along the full length of the band: one about 1 cm (roughly 2 rows) in from the top long edge, and one about 1 cm in from the bottom long edge. Work each stripe by inserting the hook under the horizontal bars of the sc rows and pulling through a sl st at each stitch, keeping the line straight and even. Carry the white yarn loosely along the WS between stripes. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 4: Fleur-de-Lis Appliqué (white)

Center Petal — with white, ch 4.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across — (3 sc).

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (3 sc).

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in last st — (4 sc).

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (4 sc).

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in last st — (5 sc).

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (5 sc).

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog — (3 sc).

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in next st — (2 sc).

Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog — (1 sc). Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm (8 in) tail for sewing.

Side Petals (make 2) — with white, ch 3.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch — (2 sc).

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in each st across — (4 sc).

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (4 sc).

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of last 2 sts — (5 sc).

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (5 sc).

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog — (3 sc).

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in next st — (2 sc).

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog — (1 sc). Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm (8 in) tail.

Crossbar — with white, ch 9.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across — (8 sc).

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across — (8 sc). Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm (8 in) tail.

Base Knot — with white, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into ring, join with sl st to first sc — (6 sc).

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st — (12 sc).

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st — (12 sc). Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm (8 in) tail.

Part 5: Ties (make 2)

With navy, ch 41.

Row 1: Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across — (40 sl sts). Fasten off, leaving a 15 cm (6 in) tail.

Assembly and Finishing

Assemble the appliqué first. Pin the center petal vertically on the center front of the belt, tip pointing down toward the center point. Place the two side petals curving outward and slightly downward from the base of the center petal, then lay the crossbar horizontally across the lower third of the center petal. Place the base knot over the junction of the petals and crossbar. Using the white tails and a tapestry needle, whipstitch each piece securely in place with small, neat stitches, keeping the appliqué flat. Weave in all ends.

Attach the ties. Sew one tie securely to the WS of each pointed end, centered, approx. 1 cm from the tip. Weave in ends.

Weave in ends. Thread each tail onto the tapestry needle and run it back and forth through the back of several stitches, then trim close to the fabric. Never knot your ends; weaving hides them invisibly.

Block. Lightly mist the belt with water (or pin it and steam gently), then pin it flat to measurements: 60 cm long, 8.5 cm wide at the sides, 16 cm deep at the center front point. Pin the point and appliqué flat while drying. Let it dry completely before wearing.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors. Swap navy for black or burgundy, and white for cream or gold, for a completely different mood. Keep the contrast strong so the stripes and fleur-de-lis read clearly.
• Adjust the length. Add or remove rows in multiples of 6 to keep the stripes and point placement even. Each 6 rows adds about 1 in (2.5 cm) to the band.
• Substitute yarn. Any DK cotton works; avoid acrylic, which stretches and loses shape. Always re-check your gauge with a new yarn.
• Make it wider or narrower. Start with a chain of 16 or 20 instead of 18 for a slimmer or wider belt, adjusting the point rows to match the new stitch count.