Seine River Bateau Mouche Cozy Free Crochet Pattern
Seine River Bateau Mouche Cozy: A Free Beginner Crochet Pattern
Introduction
Bonjour, and welcome to your very first Parisian adventure in crochet! This little bateau mouche (that's French for "fly boat," the famous glass-topped tourist boats that glide down the Seine) is the perfect first project for someone who has never held a hook. It's a simple tube worked flat in easy single crochet, then seamed up the back, with a cheerful navy waterline stripe and a single triangular sail that pops up from the top edge. When you slip it over a standard toilet paper roll, your bathroom gets a touch of whimsical Parisian chic that makes guests smile every single time. The finished cozy is about 5.5 inches tall and 5 inches wide when flat, with a firm, tidy single-crochet texture that feels satisfying in your hands and holds its shape beautifully. If you can make a slip knot and a chain, you can absolutely make this boat.
Materials Needed
- Yarn (main color, "MC"): Worsted weight (category 4) acrylic or cotton blend, cream — approximately 90 yards.
- Yarn (contrast color, "CC"): Worsted weight, navy — approximately 25 yards.
- Yarn (white, "W"): Worsted weight, white — approximately 10 yards (for the sail).
- Hook: Size F/5, which is 3.75 mm.
- Stitch marker: 1, to mark your first stitch or your color-change row.
- Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends.
- Scissors: Sharp, small snips are easiest.
- Finished size: Tube approximately 5.5 inches tall x 5 inches wide (flat), fitting a standard toilet paper roll (about 4.5 inches tall x 4.5 inches in diameter). Sail approximately 3.5 inches tall x 3 inches wide at the base.
Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary
- ch — chain. Make a slip knot on your hook, then wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it through the loop on your hook. That's one chain.
- sc — single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (you now have 2 loops on the hook), yarn over again, and pull through both loops. One single crochet made.
- sl st — slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull that loop straight through the loop on your hook. It joins without adding height.
- sc2tog — single crochet 2 together (a decrease). Insert hook into the first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop; insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop; yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. Two stitches become one. (Listed for reference — this pattern doesn't use it, but you'll see it in other patterns.)
- BLO — back loop only. Every single crochet stitch has two top loops (a front loop and a back loop). Working "in BLO" means you insert your hook only under the loop farthest from you. (Listed for reference.)
- turn — flip your work over so you can work back across the row you just finished.
- sts — stitches.
- MC — main color (cream). CC — contrast color (navy). W — white.
- Fasten off — cut the yarn a few inches from your work, then pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.
- Whipstitch — a simple seaming stitch: bring the needle up through both layers, then over the edge and back up again, repeating in a spiral to join two edges.
Gauge
16 single crochet stitches x 18 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet.
Gauge simply means how big your stitches come out. It matters because if your stitches are much bigger than this, your cozy will be baggy and slide off the roll; if they're much smaller, it won't fit over the roll at all. To check, crochet a small square about 5 inches wide (chain 21, then single crochet in rows until it's about 5 inches tall). Lay a ruler across the middle and count how many stitches fit in 4 inches, then count how many rows fit in 4 inches. If you have more stitches than 16, your stitches are too small — try a hook one size larger. If you have fewer, your stitches are too big — try a hook one size smaller. Wash and dry your swatch the way you'll treat the finished cozy, since some yarns change size after washing.
Beginner Tips Before You Start
- Count every row. Single crochet rows all look alike, so place your stitch marker in the first stitch of each row, or jot row numbers on a scrap of paper and tick them off. It's the easiest way to stay on track.
- Don't pull the yarn tight. Tension is the number-one beginner struggle. Let the yarn flow smoothly from the ball and keep your loops relaxed — snug, not strangling. Tight stitches make a stiff, too-small tube.
- Always work into the very last stitch. The turning chain at the start of each row can look like a stitch, but it isn't one. Count your stitches at the end of each row to make sure you still have 20.
- Change colors on the last pull-through. When you switch from cream to navy, complete the final single crochet of the row by pulling the new color through the last two loops. This gives a clean color change.
- Keep your starting chain loose. A tight foundation chain makes the bottom edge pucker. If your chain feels stiff, try chaining with a hook one size larger, then switching back.
- Embrace the "ugly" stage. Your first few rows may look uneven and wobbly. That's completely normal — single crochet fabric smooths out as it grows, and seaming and finishing hide a multitude of beginner sins.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Part 1: The Hull (worked flat in MC)
Row 1: With MC, ch 21. Sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. (20 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (20 sc)
Rows 3–40: Repeat Row 2. (20 sc) The piece now measures approximately 5.5 inches tall x 5 inches wide. Do not fasten off.
Part 2: The Navy Waterline Stripe (worked in CC)
Row 41: Change to CC on the final pull-through of the last stitch of Row 40. Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (20 sc)
Rows 42–46: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (20 sc)
Row 47: Change back to MC on the final pull-through. Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (20 sc)
Rows 48–52: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (20 sc) Fasten off, leaving a 20-inch tail for seaming.
Part 3: The Sail (worked flat in W)
The sail grows by one stitch on every other row, which makes a neat triangle. Each "increase row" adds 2 stitches (one at each end); each "even row" keeps the count the same.
Row 1: With W, ch 2. Sc 3 in the 2nd ch from hook. (3 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st. (5 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (5 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. (7 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (7 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in last st. (9 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (9 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in last st. (11 sc)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (11 sc)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in last st. (13 sc)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (13 sc)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in last st. (15 sc)
Row 13: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (15 sc)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in last st. (17 sc)
Row 15: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (17 sc)
Row 16: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in last st. (19 sc)
Row 17: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (19 sc)
Row 18: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 17 sts, 2 sc in last st. (21 sc)
Row 19: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (21 sc)
Row 20: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (21 sc) Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail.
Part 4: Sail Edging (optional, in CC)
With the right side of the sail facing you, join CC at the bottom right corner. Work sc evenly along the two slanted sides and the bottom edge — about 1 sc per row along the slants and 1 sc per stitch along the bottom. Sl st to the first sc to join. Fasten off.
Part 5: Attaching the Sail
Position the sail centered on the top edge of the tube, with the wide base aligned to the top edge and the point facing upward. Using the white tail, whipstitch the base of the sail to the top edge of the tube, working through both layers. Weave in all ends.
Assembly and Finishing
Seaming the tube: Fold the rectangle in half with right sides together, aligning the short ends (Row 1 to Row 52). Thread your tapestry needle with the 20-inch tail and whipstitch the short edges together to form a tube — bring the needle up through both layers, over the edge, and back up again, repeating all the way down. Turn the tube right side out. The navy stripe should sit about 1 inch from the bottom edge, forming the waterline.
Weaving in ends: Thread each tail onto the tapestry needle and run it back and forth through the inside of the fabric for about 2 inches, changing direction once so it can't work loose. Trim close to the fabric.
Blocking: Lightly mist the finished cozy with water (or steam it gently), shape the tube into a smooth cylinder and flatten the sail so it stands straight, and let it dry completely. Blocking relaxes the stitches and evens out any wobbles.
Finishing touch: Slip the cozy over a standard toilet paper roll. The navy stripe sits near the bottom as a waterline, and the sail stands upright at the top. If you like, embroider a small CC anchor or wave motif on the cream hull using duplicate stitch.
Pro Tips and Variations
- Play with color: Swap the cream hull for soft grey or pale blue, or make the waterline stripe teal or red for a different nautical mood. Just keep the navy stripe contrast strong so it reads as a waterline.
- Adjust the size: The tube is 20 stitches wide and 52 rows tall. To fit a larger or smaller roll, add or remove rows in multiples of 2 (each row is about 0.21 inches tall at this gauge) and add or remove stitches in pairs to change the width. Keep the navy stripe 6 rows tall.
- Substitute yarn: Cotton blend gives a crisper, more washable finish; acrylic is softer and more forgiving for beginners. Any worsted weight (category 4) works — just check your gauge first.
- Make it a set: Crochet a second cozy in reverse colors (navy hull, cream stripe) for a matching pair, or add a tiny CC flag on a toothpick "mast" for extra charm.